Chef Jacques Gautier

Jacques Gautier

by Nancy Matsumoto
September 27, 2011

To enter the charming Park Slope restaurant Palo Santo is to feel you’ve stumbled upon a tropical Bauhaus, a laboratory for artisans. The botanical curves of metal artist Kristina Kozak’s handrail and grill lead up to a pair of century-old wooden doors, which give way to a wonderland of handcrafted furniture, mosaic work, and recycled architectural detailing. Lush greenery and the sound of water trickling down rocks complete this temple to craft, both culinary and decorative.

Although many artists helped Palo Santo’s chef-owner Jacques Gautier fashion the interior, the overarching vision is his own. “I feel there should be a strong connection between décor, food, style of service and restaurant concept,” says Gautier. I wanted my place to show that our influences came from Latin American markets. We put a lot of care into carefully selecting and making everything handmade.”

Although Gautier grew up in Washington, D.C., his love for Latin America began early, through frequent travels in the region with his Haitian father, an interpreter for the Organization of American States. It was those traveling and eating experiences — and a Delaware-born mom who grew her own vegetables — that most influenced the chef’s tastes. A vegetarian between the ages of 14 and 19, he trained at Manhattan’s Natural Gourmet Institute, then picked up skills in a variety of cooking styles in the kitchens of the Williamsburg Italian favorite, Brick Oven Gallery; at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s landmark Thai restaurant, Vong; and at Soho’s New American cuisine standby Zoë. Before opening Palo Santo in 2006, Gautier spent a year visiting markets throughout Latin America.

His various New York restaurant experiences taught him that there is a certain sameness — of technique and menu composition — to New York City cooking that is stronger than any ethnic differences they might tout. “At Palo Santo,” he says, “I wanted to get away from that sameness and do my own thing.”

Gautier’s cuisine highlights produce from Palo Santo’s rooftop garden, local green markets and tropical favorites. Among the latter are Haitian mangoes and papaya (for hot sauces and sorbets), avocado (at the moment, for chilled soups), avocado leaves (similar to bay leaves, for seasoning), and green coconuts (for their water and as serving vessels). Everything on the menu, from salsas and chimichurris to black beans and corn tortillas, is homemade and delicious. “The most challenging part is getting through all of the PR, bookkeeping and paperwork,” Gautier says. “I really don’t find them as interesting as cooking.”

name (required)

email (required, will not be published)

website

comment

 

    loading tweet...

      loading tweet...

      Sign up to receive the Cravings newsletter!

      Wine Features

      The Wine of Paris

      Island Whites (Part II)

      Island Whites (Part I)

      South African Diversity

      Surprise, Surprise! Bordeaux is Really Very Good

      Burgundy Joy

      New Year’s Bubblies for a Splurge and Splash

      cyn-et-champagne

      My Weekend from Wall Street to South Beach

      Vérité: French Roots in California Soil

      A Spirit for the Ages

      Ultimate Lurton

      Vinexpo, the Asian Rendition

      It’s Never Too Early to Think About Father’s Day… Especially if He’s Keen on Scotch

      Gin from the Past

      The Beauty of a Sommelier

      March of the Carnivores

      Discovering Mexican Wine

      A Feast in the Hills above Las Vegas

      Oregon: Wines on the Frontier

      Not What We Expected, Per Se

      Cru Beaujolais at Union Square Cafe

      Beaujolais Retailers

      Beaujolais with a Backbone

      Summer Cocktails?

      What is Bubbling in Champagne?

      Tight Little Island: Islay Scotch

      French Wine Finds

      Alto Adige

      Back to Restaurant Season in Paris

      Cyn's Favorite Champagnes in 2006

      Sparkles Everywhere

      Discovering Jura Gems

      A Taste of North Fork

      Milou en mai: My Month of May

      Parisian Bistrots à Vin

      A Wine Story About Bees (Buzzed by Older Wines)

      Gaia: Deconstructing a Wine List

      Robert Pepi Makes New Waves Under the Eponymous Label

      Holiday Toasting!

      Parker on Champagne: What's in a Vintage?

      Pascale Rousseau

      Ed McCarthy

      Terry Theise

      Sean Crowley

      The World of Champagne Seen from the Inside Out

      Lieb Cellars - Recipe 2

      Lieb Cellars - Recipe 1

      Lieb Cellars - Retailers

      Family Cellars' Pinot Blanc: Flat or Fizz?

      Rosé - Related Websites

      Cyn's Rosé Recs - Retailer

      Cyn's Rosé Recs - By The Glass

      Jancis Robinson, Rosé & I

      Pearl - Champagne

      Danube - Grüner Veltliner

      Esca - Bellini

      Prune - Bloody Mary



      Opentable.com



      iTunes, App Store, iBookstore, and Mac App Store




      BareNecessities.com


      Sur La Table_Brand_120X90


      CheapTickets


      Save Ten on Angie's List!


      Alessi S.P.A. US