Cooking, Eating and Living Avec Eric: Eric Ripert's Latest Cookbook

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
November 29, 2010

AVEC ERIC
A Culinary Journey with Eric Ripert, Featuring Over 100 Simple Recipes
by Eric Ripert
(Wiley, 2010)
$34.95

Eric Ripert’s latest cookbook, Avec Eric: A Culinary Journey with Eric Ripert, Featuring Over 100 Simple Recipes, is based on his PBS show about traveling and cooking with family and friends.

Avec Eric is a joy to read and reference. More than a cookbook, it is also a travelogue with over 400 photos and personal anecdotes of food and travel, as well as reflections on friendships throughout Ripert’s journeys — a theme that is established by Anthony Bourdain’s thoughtful and touching Foreword.

Many of the recipes come with descriptive and detailed wine pairing suggestions. While I must admit that Eric Ripert’s definition of a “simple recipe” differs from mine, these mouthwatering recipes are worth the challenge. Here’s a pork loin recipe from Avec Eric that’s just perfect for the season.

Roasted Pork Loin with Wild Mushrooms, Garlic and Sage Pan Jus
Serves 4

This recipe was inspired by my visit to Tuscany and the flavors of the autumn season that were so prevalent while I was there. Searing the pork loin to lock in the juices keeps the meat moist, and the rich pan sauce is made using the drippings from the roasted pork along with the earthy mushrooms. I like to put the garlic cloves in the pan with their skins still on so they sort of roast inside their case; the result is tender roasted garlic.

Pork Loin and Jus
1 (2-pound) pork loin, trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic head, cloves separated, unpeeled
3 sage sprigs
2 bay leaves, lightly crushed
¼ cup dry white wine
½ cup chicken stock (recipe p. 29)
– fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mushrooms
12 ounces assorted wild mushrooms, such as morels, porcini, chanterelles and/or oyster mushrooms
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 small shallot, finely minced
2 teaspoons finely minced garlic
2 thyme sprigs
– fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Using kitchen string, tie the pork loin once lengthwise and then crosswise, spacing each tie 1 inch apart. Season the pork generously with salt and pepper.

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Carefully add the pork loin to the hot pan and sear on all sides until golden, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add the whole garlic cloves. Lower the heat, cover, and continue roasting until medium, about 25 to 30 minutes. Check the doneness of the pork loin by inserting a meat thermometer into the center of the loin; it should register 150°F (it will continue cooking while resting). Transfer the loin to a cutting board and let rest. Reserve the sauté pan.

Meanwhile, prepare the mushrooms: trim and clean all of the mushrooms. Heat the oil and butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic and thyme, and cook until the shallot softens, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms are tender and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

Heat the pan (reserved from the pork) over medium heat. Add the sage and bay leaves, and deglaze the pan with the white wine. Simmer to reduce the wine by half, then add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer to lightly reduce again. Add the sautéed mushrooms to the sauce and remove from the heat; set the mushrooms and sauce aside for about 5 minutes to infuse.

Slice the pork loin crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices and lay 3 slices on each of 4 plates. Spoon the mushrooms over and around the pork loin, spoon the jus around, and serve immediately.