Carciofo al Forno (wood oven-roasted artichoke heart with white bean purée and cremini mushrooms)
by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
September 13, 2007
LAVAGNA
545 E 5th St
(Aves A & B)
New York, NY 10009
212-979-1005
$$
When I think of carciofo, Italian for artichoke, an image of the whole deep-fried artichoke like a beautiful dried flower comes to mind. But at Lavanga, it’s the artichoke heart that’s served, wood oven-roasted not deep-fried, with white bean purée and cremini mushrooms on the side. The artichoke heart does not look as flamboyant as a whole artichoke, but what it may lack in appearance it certainly makes up for in its smooth, soft texture. The white bean purée is also subtle but flavorful. And finally, the slightly earthy taste of the mushrooms combines nicely with the other two players. None of the ingredients is overpowering; rather, all three are modest and work beautifully together to create an understated but elegant appetizer.
Also in Alphabet City, Italian, Vegetables