Wild Mushroom Gratin

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
March 5, 2005

CHUBO
6 Clinton St
(Houston & Stanton Sts)
New York, NY 10002
212-674-6300

Chubo is one of the two relatively new Japanese fusion restaurants on Clinton St. I am really wary these days of fusion Japanese food since it has been such a fad and bad experiences at Matsuri and Sumile have put me on guard.

Chubo was a lovely surprise. The food is innovatively refreshing and delicious. The Gravlax appetizer was very vibrant in flavor and the pairing of textures and flavor was well executed. It comes on a green onion okonomiyaki, which is a like a fluffier scallion pancake, with cucumber-dill salad that gives it a kick of freshness, with subtle hints of bitterness through the tobiko fish eggs accent.

The Wild Mushroom Gratin is something I am ready to add to cravings. I have been craving it since I walked out Chubo’s door. This gratin actually has very little cheese, if any. Layers of potatoes, wild mushrooms, roasted tomatoes and porcini-white truffle sauce are topped with a watercress salad, and the finishing touch is the white sesame seeds to enhance flavor. Potatoes, mushrooms and sesame are three of my favorite foods, and they work together in perfect harmony here.

Service is still a little lacking, but it actually allows your dinner party to take its time to enjoy the meal.

Also in American, Japanese, LES, Mushrooms