Fischer Farm Suckling Pig Confit

by Ike Cheung
May 20, 2007

ELEVEN MADISON PARK
11 Madison Ave
@ 24th St
New York, NY 10010
212-889-0905

“First impressions can go a long way,” so they say. More often than not, it lies furthest away from the truth; additional exploration is needed to reveal its veracity. This is one reason I hesitated in reviewing Eleven Madison Park as my first piece for Cravings. Let me explain. Just in case you haven’t kept up with the restaurant scene, Eleven Madison Park is not the starlet restaurant du jour, but rather has a pedigree of the highest standards in culinary excellence and is ranked one of the fine dining staples on this island. It has earned accolades from esteemed journalists and foodies alike on both coasts. Now do you understand my dilemma? For my first log, do I just simply play it safe with an already acclaimed approved establishment? And more importantly, what else can I possibly contribute that hasn’t already been said?

If you are the kind of person who likes to skip to the end, I will save you the trouble and tell you right now. It is what any fine restaurant has to measure up to: The food is divine, the service is impeccable and the décor is timeless. However, this is not how I would like to tell my story, but rather about how I almost missed my latest visit.

On the day of my dinner reservation, I had a client meeting outside the City. However, a predicted storm made the drive in and out of the City a living nightmare. Based on the horrific traffic conditions, I knew I was going to be late for my 6pm reservation.

By the time I finally got to the restaurant, I was more than two hours late. The hostess escorted me to the most remote table from her post. Walking past the entire restaurant, I had the feeling everyone was staring at me, knowing that I had kept my dinner guest waiting. But the sight of my smiling date holding a glass of champagne was a relief from my self-inflected guilt. And by half way through my martini, I was ready to look at the menu.

Here is the short history of Eleven Madison Park. The restaurant is part of Danny Meyer’s empire of restaurants. It first opened its doors in 1998, which is a lifetime in the restaurant business in this town. The first chef, Kerry Heffernan, leaned more towards French country cooking, with emphasis on hearty fare. For the past two years, a young Swiss chef, Daniel Humm, took over the helm and revamped the entire menu.

Restoring a classic such as Eleven Madison Park can be a double-edged sword. On one hand, to stay fresh in this competitive restaurant climate, change is vital and welcoming for new and curious patrons. Then again, change can turn off long-time clientele. Unlike opening a new restaurant with a new concept, it takes careful scrutiny and editing to refresh an existing classic.

The super-sized main dining area was left mostly untouched from its inception. A new Art Deco–inspired chandelier was the only obvious change I spotted, a perfect mate with the rest of the décor. Furniture and banquettes were slipped with new upholstery. Bathrooms were upgraded with glimmering new fixtures. New china and flatware served as steward for the artfully prepared dishes. For the most part, tired existing pieces were replaced with fresh ones that resembled the original. Nothing was overlooked but rather careful and precise alteration was executed.

The once à la carte menu has been relinquished in favor of a three-tier tasting menu. The offering of three or four courses or the gourmand of eleven courses depends on how hungry you are, how much time you have or how much of a dent you want to put on your plastic. We decided on the middle tier of four courses.

A series of bite-sized morsels set the stage for the courses to come. Our eyes lit up as we admired the stunning display of delicacies. To label them as hors d’oeuvres would be pedestrian on my part. Crisp sweetbread cornet, citrus-marinated hamachi wrap with zucchini and tobiko, black truffle macaroon stuffed with foie gras accompanied by apple cider gelée, and my favorite — goat cheese galette with Meyer lemon comfiture.

We had waived the idea of selecting a wine for our meal. Instead, we left the full discretion for wine pairing with our sommelier. That was when I noticed what sets Eleven Madison Park apart from other fine establishments. Flawless and helpful service from a restaurant of this caliber was to be expected, but can sometimes lean towards stolid military precision. It was the cheerful and respectful gestures of interaction among the staff that had a soothing effect and assured my sentiments of a fine dining experience.

The following courses showcased Daniel Humm’s talent in reductions, foams and slow cooking. The former two techniques in incapable hands can often result in a frivolous consequence. Not so with the young Swiss, his techniques in culinary alchemy were purposeful and refined. Compared to the former chef, his delicate performance brings out a graceful sensibility in his dishes.

My gnocchi appetizer of la ratte potatoes with Hawaiian prawns, calamari, celery and Meyer lemon was simply delightful. The poached Nova Scotia lobster with Florence fennel and chamomile dazzled my taste buds and had me wishing for more. But the showstopper was the candy bar — shaped suckling pig confit. The slow cooking technique brought out all the juicy flavors that are simply inherent in this dish. The last of the four courses was the dessert or a selection of cheeses. I chose without hesitation the blood orange tart with fromage blanc and fennel ice cream. It was a perfect finale to an eventful meal.

Dining at Eleven Madison Park was a salvation to my dreadful day. From my table, as I sat and gazed out into the evening, a dreamlike halo from the reflected light on tree branches reminded me how rewarding life can be. As so was my first revisit to this fine restaurant that likewise had a lasting impression.

Ike Cheung, an architecturally trained interior designer and professor, has lived in New York City for nearly a decade and enjoys discovering the City’s diverse culture. In addition to working with his design clients and teaching, he writes for an industry newsletter covering the pulse of the restaurant and bar scenes.

Also in American, French, Madison Square, Pork