Fiddlehead Fern Ravioli

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
June 26, 2007

PERILLA
9 Jones St
(Bleecker & W 4th Sts)
New York, NY 10014
212-929-6868

You will have to excuse me, but it’s been a rough month. My worst nightmare has come back to haunt me after years of dormancy; I had an allergic reaction to something I ate! I’ll spare you the gruesome details, but it’s put me out of commission for ten days: can’t drink alcohol, staying away from seafood, fruits and nuts, and worst of all, my taste buds have gone psychedelic.

However, it was an extremely busy month with lots of tastings before the fateful meal that did me in, so I’m going to summarize some highlights and nadirs of this month’s NYC food adventures.

Contrary to my general style of saving the best for last, let’s start out with the surprising hit of the month, Perilla. Chef Harold Dieterle, being a Top Chef winner, really had to prove himself to me. Formerly a sous chef at The Harrison, he had to be talented, but you have to question what type of person wants to appear on Top Chef. Forgive me, but I don’t believe in reality television shows. With Perilla, Dieterle is not merely coasting on his new celebrity status, he’s chosen to open a small neighborhood joint, taking the philosophy of his former employers Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abrams (and much of their staff), and creating the type of food he wants, with lots of Asian influences. And it’s not heavy-handed either; it’s simply pleasant. The entrée fiddlehead fern ravioli with fava beans, morels and truffle butter was so mouth-wateringly delicious that when I had finished, I wanted to start the meal all over again. The atmosphere clearly strives to recreate the success of The Red Cat, but Perilla strikes me as trendier and I don’t quite connect with it in the same way. Still, it’s very new, the food is delicious and the service personable, so I have high hopes that it will become a lasting neighborhood hangout.

I also had high hopes for the oyster po’ boy at Cookshop. Cynthia had been raving about it, so we went for a lunch tasting one day. Conceptually, the po’ boy sounded amazing, with a side of potato salad and slice of pickle, but not a single ingredient really stood out, so, from a flavor standpoint, the oyster po’ boy (and potato salad) fell flat. Sorry, I really wanted to love it.

Mercat was another new try for me. From calling to get a reservation to leaving the restaurant, there was plenty of frustration due to disorganization and newbies on the job, but since they are a new kid on the block, I’m going to be nice, for now. The patatas bravas was a total knock out and has been added to the Craving section, so let’s move on.

After a little shopping at Jeffrey, it only made sense to stop in at Fatty Crab for a snack. I know I’ve praised Fatty Crab plenty of times, but it just makes me happy. Another addition to Craving this month is Fatty Crab’s pork buns. Just stellar! The watermelon bellini was the perfect fizzy antidote to the rich flavors of the juicy pork buns. A side of steamed baby bok choi with oyster sauce, olive oil, and yuzu juice was so simple but perfectly completed my Saturday afternoon craving. Great snack choice any time of day!

With all the press dollars spent on announcing the revamping of Suba’s menu by Boqueria’s Seamus Mullen (despite his brief hiatus due to surgery for a bout with rheumatoid arthritis), I was silly enough to take the bate. The last time I felt so gross in a LES meat market was at Stanton Social, but at least the food made it worthwhile. I couldn’t wait to resurface from the fake grotto at Suba and wash off the film of slime I felt all over me. The food is fine, but not spectacular. There’s no competition between Suba and Boqueria.

With New York Magazine’s recent study of street food, Tony’s (street vendor on 62nd St and Madison Ave). Since John is Tony’s disciple, I figured he was worth trying and may be just as good as Tony’s. After the taste test, I decided that I’m a purist of sorts and still favor Tony’s cheeseburger, which I find to be juicier and more flavorful. But something that struck me as odd in the New York article was the comparison of John’s cheeseburger to Burger Joint’s. That is like comparing apples and oranges. You can compare Tony’s and John’s burgers because stylistically they are the same street vendor food, and you can compare Burger Joint and Shake Shack’s burgers accordingly, but the John and Burger Joint comparison doesn’t fly. I know I am splitting hairs here. I will probably get lambasted by millions of burger fans out there because everyone feels very strongly about their personal preferences. So I rest my case.

Down in the East Village, I didn’t even realize that Mamoun’s had opened a branch on St. Mark’s between 2nd and 3rd Avenues about six months ago. Is it just me, or has the novelty of Mamoun’s worn off? I won’t argue that it’s not cheap, but there has to be better falafal out there. Anyone?!

Continuing east, the newest ramen shop, Setagaya, a Japanese chain, opened on 1st Avenue between St. Mark’s Place and 9th Street. I mean, it was supposed to open, but due to health inspections, the opening was delayed. I found out when I stopped by on “opening night” and there was a sign posted in Japanese only about the delay. Thankfully I could read it. It seems that they are really making a point of being “authentically Japanese.” There’s a large LCD display on the wall playing Japanese satellite television food shows. Can’t wait to try it.

Finally, for a little Indian fix, Cynthia and I tried out the $6 lunch buffet at Tiffin Wallah in Curry Hill on 28th Street between Park and Lexington Avenues. Is this for real? Southern Indian cuisine (vegetarian), including a dahl, a couple of varieties of curries, a couple different options for rice and Indian pancakes (which I would avoid as I found them dried out and rubbery), and fruit salad, all you can eat for just six bucks?! It’s not amazing, but it’s extremely decent and a great value, so no complaints! Understandably, Tiffin Wallah tries to cover costs through sales of drinks that must be ordered separately. The interior is nice and clean and overall very pleasant. If I lived or worked in the area, I’d be a fixture there at lunch. Good news is that delivery service starts soon! Though the $6 special isn’t available for delivery, the regular menu is extremely reasonable, too.

Let’s end on a sweet note with the Maury Rubin’s second Birdbath store in the West Village. It definitely stands out more than the original East Village shop that wanted to be known for its green concept rather than for its affiliation with City Bakery. This new Birdbath, however, is taking advantage of its branding and association with City Bakery. The shop is cute and blends in well with its West Village environment, aiming to become not just the quintessential neighborhood bakery, but more specifically the neighborhood “green” bakery. The bear claw with apricot filling is a signature treat and very yummy, but not everything is decadent in the way City Bakery desserts are. There are some vegan treats, and vegan is a dirty word in my vocabulary so I steered clear of those items. But whether you go vegan or indulge, the West Village Birdbath is a worthwhile stop that can easily become routine.

Well, there you have it: June in a nutshell, pre-disaster. Hopefully, God will take pity on me rather than punishing me for being a glutton. I really want my taste buds back!

Also in American, Pasta, West Village