Sushi (omakase)

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
December 15, 2006

SASABUNE
401 E 73rd St
(1st & 2nd Aves)
New York, NY 10021
212-249-8583

Two Saturdays ago, on a day when everything was going wrong, I encountered two small miracles that put me in a great mood. First was the new James Bond movie, Casino Royale. All the hubbub on whether Daniel Craig could pull off being a new blond Bond was inconsequential as I was instantly swept away watching him on screen, melting my heart. I liked the movie so much that I went back the next night and watched it again! The second miracle that had a heart-melting effect, but in a different way, was dinner at Sasabune.

Sasabune may be new to New York but its fame precedes it. Friends in L.A. rave about the original Sushi Sasabune and also the one in Honolulu, so imagine my surprise when I saw a listing of the new opening at 401 East 73rd Street. It just so happens that my favorite Japanese restaurant in New York, Y’s Place, used to be located at that exact spot, but unfortunately it closed two years ago. I am quite familiar with the space of the restaurant since I used to visit once a week and even threw my 30th birthday party there. Sasabune, and the Japanese restaurant that occupied the space prior barely touched the original Y’s Place’s décor. It’s a small space with two rooms: upon entering you find the sushi bar that seats six and a couple of tables, the other side can seat about another sixteen customers. There’s something about this block, first Y’s Place, now Sasabune, and even Jin Soon’s UES store is here too!

Kenji Takahashi, the protégé of Chef Nobi of the original Sasabune is the chef-owner of the New York Sasabune. He is charismatic and a good conversationalist (a welcome change from the jaded and conceited air of many sushi chefs) as he makes sushi in front of you at the bar.

Sasabune is omakase only. In their own terms, rather than saying chef’s choice, they ask you to simply “trust me.” Upon sitting down, the service begins. The only menu you require is the drinks menu, which is not that exciting. Kenji picks the freshest fish from the markets daily and hence why he asks you to trust him. The sequence of the fish served is the same for each customer, although there is slight variation. For example, since Kenji thought I was Japanese, I was served uni and ikura. Our neighbors inquired why they did not get those two, but when they found out it was sea urchin and salmon roe, they said never mind — not that uni or ikura are that outrageous but I guess there are some people who don’t fancy it. On my second visit, I found that there was little variation in the repertoire: a sashimi starter, then followed by six plates of sushi (two per plate), two oysters, and a finale with a roll, which is generally their signature crab roll — this may not sound like a lot of food but by the time I finished my sashimi starter, I was already feeling a little full. If you are still hungry, Kenji will keep making more until you tell him to stop, but generally the standard lineup is a generous amount of food.

On my first visit I had the albacore sashimi, then sushi in this order: blue fin tuna and toro, fluke and bonito, yellowtail and salmon, black cod and Spanish mackerel, jumbo clam and scallop, two kumamoto oysters, sea urchin and salmon roe. I ended with the crab roll, but was uncomfortably stuffed. The second time, Kenji noticed that we were getting full after a similar variety of sashimi and sushi, and asked if we needed the roll so I declined.

The quality of the fish at Sasabune is excellent and the prices reasonable — both times the sushi came in under $70 per person. The one thing that it does lack is the attention to detail of presentation. The plates are generically white and plastic, and the portions are large. It does not cheapen the quality of the food but the dining experience. The refinery of Japanese cuisine is in not only the presentation and quality of the food itself but also on the type of ware it is served on so as to create a pleasant experience that satisfies all sensoria. At Sasabune, the atmosphere is leisurely and relaxed, creating a more accessible dining experience without formalities. I don’t necessarily think this is a problem but I do want to explain it because some people expect great sushi to equate a more refined dining experience and may be disappointed with the atmosphere. While I don’t think the food needs to be dainty to be refined, I do think the portions here are a bit too large. As much as I love uni, there was so much of it that I was starting to understand what it means to have too much of a good thing. Sometimes less is definitely more. The sashimi starter also should be about half of its current size. I’d rather savor the taste in my mouth and have a lingering memory than eat so much that I’m overstuffed and can’t really appreciate what’s to come. As low key as the restaurant may seem, on busy nights, the speed at which the plates are served is definitely not “leisurely” and you feel rushed to get out as they need to turn their tables to accommodate their next reservation.

I am definitely a fan of Sasabune and have recommended it to several friends already. As word gets out, it will become increasingly hard to get a reservation but for the time being I’m happy to have found a new favorite.

Also in Japanese, Seafood, Sushi