"Steak and Eggs" Korean Style

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
August 26, 2008

THE GOOD FORK
391 Van Brunt St
(Van Dyke & Coffey Sts)
Brooklyn, NY 11231
718-643-6636

The Good Fork has been on my list of restaurants to try for quite some time now. I was deterred by the lack of public transportation to the Red Hook area, but since the recent opening of Brooklyn’s IKEA, I could no longer use the difficult commute excuse, with the free water taxi and shuttle buses now available.

They take a limited number of reservations as most of the tables are left open for walk-ins. So securing one for Saturday at 8pm was a smart move, considering that walk-ins were told the wait was an hour and a half for a party of two.

I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I knew that since 360 closed, The Good Fork has been pretty much the only restaurant in this neighborhood that congregates locals and foodies alike. Chef owner Sohui Kim cooked at Savoy and Annisa, two of my favorites, before opening The Good Fork with her husband. I knew it was going to be a good meal, but I didn’t realize that I’d be so excited that I’d want to come back the next night. I opted to return the following week instead, and while my dinner companion and I ordered the same excellent entrées, we tried different appetizers and sides.

With a focus on local organic produce, the cuisine is American with some Korean influences, like the homemade dumplings, kimchi rice, shrimp scallion pancake and “steak and eggs” Korean style.

My companion and I started with the mixed organic field greens with house dressing, which is a great choice for a simple, healthy appetizer. There’s nothing boring about it. But for a little added diversity, the other salad option of grilled nectarine, curly endive, green beans and maple braised bacon, is also lovely. The dumplings were lack-luster, but the chilled Pacific oysters poached in olive oil, with mango avocado and lemon cucumbers was a hit. When asked what type of oysters these were, the waiter returned to tell me that their distributor would only say they’re from the Pacific Northwest. Though I couldn’t get the variety out of them, the oysters were deliciously plump and juicy. The brininess was undercut by the sweet mango and creamy avocado. Lemon cucumbers are now my new love, and the only cukes I’ll buy when available. There was an accent of kochujang (Korean hot sauce) on the plate to add some heat to the cool dish.

On the two separate occasions, we tried the dumplings (as mentioned) and pancake, which did not live up to expectations — for these two Korean staples, I prefer what I can find in Koreatown both for flavor and texture. The steak and eggs, however, is outstanding. Marinating beef is a strength in Korean cuisine, so the grilled skirt steak is not only tender, but also perfectly seasoned. It’s served with kimchi rice and a fried egg — a delectable combination. On my first visit, the kimchi rice was too soggy and bland, and I had wished that it was made more like kimchi fried rice, with the rice grains clearly defined and absorbing the spicy and tangy juices of the kimchi. They must have heard my prayers because the rice on the following Saturday was perfect in texture: not too soggy or greasy.

Another entrée we ordered two weeks in a row was the grilled gulf shrimp with risotto. It was cooked with lemon-thyme, peas, Added Value Farm squash, zucchini and cherry tomatoes. Every ingredient in this dish exuded freshness. The flavors were pronounced, proving that local, in-season produce makes better meals.

We ended both meals with the apple tart à la mode. Warm, with delicate slices of baked apple and flaky thin-layered crust, it hits the spot.

A copious dinner for two with two appetizers, two entrées, two glasses of wine and a dessert to share rang in both times just under $100. In terms of quality price ratio, The Good Fork wins a gold medal. Overall, the good food, charming atmosphere, friendly service and great value place The Good Fork on another list of mine: favorites.

Also in American, Beef, Korean, Red Hook