Sora Lella

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
November 19, 2009

Aldo Trabalza’s Caprese [CLOSED]
300 Spring St
(Renwick & Hudson Sts)
New York, NY 10013
212-366-4749

Viviana di Bari

The original Sora Lella restaurant was opened in Rome in 1959 by Elena Trabalza, who then passed the restaurant on to her son, the current chef owner, Aldo Trabalza. This year, two of Aldo’s sons, Mauro and Simone, opened Sore Lella New York while Aldo and two other sons hold down the fort in Rome. The menu, service and congenial family-style management are so endearing, I keep going back.

The New York outpost of Sora Lella is in West SoHo in a modern, glass building. The floor to ceiling windows that put the whole restaurant on display caused an initial disconnect for me as I was expecting something more old school, but the restaurant’s classic Roman homestyle cooking brings comfort, warmth and satisfaction.

On my first visit, Mario, our waiter, talked us through the entire menu. He was happy to put together a selection of dishes, so we let him guide us. He started us with three appetizers: the special house Caprese, Grandmother’s traditional meatballs, and the artichoke salad with Pecorino.

The Caprese, which is Aldo Trabalza’s dedication to maestro chef Gualtiero Marchesi, one of Italy’s most renowned and celebrated chefs, is not traditional but entirely unique. The buffalo Mozzarella is set in cream, so it’s like a panna cotta, and the tomato is served as a gelée with shredded basil inside. These two mounds are accented by a smear of pesto between them, and it is suggested that you get a little of all three in each bite. The buffalo Mozzarella is creamier and smoother than most because it has been reconfigured in form and texture, and the tomato gelée is light and refreshing. The pesto adds flavor and a little crunch from the pine nuts. It’s a fantastic combination and ingenious recreation of the traditional Caprese salad.

I love pastas, and Mario recommended the tonnarelli alla cuccagna and the gnocchi di patate all’amatriciana. Tonnarelli is square spaghetti, and this dish is a cream-based specialty Aldo created in 1961, served with sausage, pancetta and walnuts. All the ingredients are finely minced and pulverized, and the walnut gives it a nutty flavor and crunchy texture, while the sausage and pancetta add the aroma and flavor that make this pasta a knock out!

Understandably, they don’t reveal their secret recipes as they’ve perfected them over generations and should guard them well. I’m just happy to be on the receiving end of them.

Pasta and potatoes are two of my favorite foods, so gnocchi should be my dream come true. However, I usually find gnocchi too heavy, so I avoid it. But Mario assured us that Sora Lella’s gnocchi is light and like no other. He had not led us astray the entire evening, so we trusted him. And indeed Sora Lella’s homemade potato gnocchi, served in the classic Roman amatriciana sauce of smoked guanciale, tomatoes and onions, are soft and light like pillows. Simple, comforting and scrumptious!

On another visit, I noticed carbonara pasta at the next table though I hadn’t seen it on the menu, so I asked Mario about it. I love carbonara, and since this is another classic Roman dish, I’m certain Sora Lella would do it justice. Mario explained that while carbonara is not on the menu, they can make it if you ask. Good family-style Italian restaurants, like family-style Chinese restaurants, are accommodating, flexible, and willing to serve off the menu items.

For dessert, the homemade gelatos came highly recommended, so we asked Mario to pick one for us. He chose his favorite zabaione (eggnog) gelato drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar. The sour balsamic vinegar cut the sweetness of the gelato, rounding out the flavor and ending the meal nicely.

The entire crew at Sora Lella, much like Mario, is endearing and creates a welcoming, laidback atmosphere. Chef Mauro Trabalza frequently comes out of the kitchen to check on the floor and chat with his brother Simone at the bar, as does their partner, Fabio Maltese. For the time being, much like their recipes, the restaurant seems to be a hidden secret, but I’m sure New York will catch on soon.

Also in Appetizer, Italian, Pasta, West SoHo