Soft Shell Crab Tempura Cold Soba

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
April 9, 2005

SOBAKOH
309 E 5th St
(1st & 2nd Aves)
New York, NY 10003
212-254-2244

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng

Sobakoh is the most recent addition to the soba restaurant scene in New York City. The others, namely Honmura An, Sobaya and Soba Nippon, all have their own niches and loyal followings.

Sobakoh is currently open only for dinner from 5pm to 11pm. I showed up with two friends at around 9:30pm to be greeted by the host outside the door, apologetically informing us that they were sold out of all soba dishes. I had heard about the soft shell crab tempura so even without the soba I was willing to try the restaurant.

When we started placing our order, the waiter informed us that there were still three last portions of soba left if we wanted them. Of course, we wanted them! When I lived in Japan I went on soba pilgrimages to find good soba! I ordered the soft shell crab tempura cold soba.

Soba lovers always eat cold soba as opposed to hot because the cold soba retains the texture of the noodles and the right amount of firmness to chew on, whereas soba that sits in hot broth becomes soft over the course of the meal.

To make a long story short, the soba wasn’t much to write home about, nor the dipping sauce. Not even the soft shell crabs did much for me. Overall I found the meal to be on the tasteless side. Homura An is still far superior in its food, service and atmosphere. Sobakoh has better atmosphere than Sobaya, but the food is not much superior. I understand that it’s a new restaurant and there are still many details to iron out but running out of 80% of the menu by 9:30pm night after night calls for some action to be taken. The staff is exceedingly courteous and service conscious which makes me want to come back and try Sobakoh again. Maybe a couple months down the road they will have adjusted and improved.

Also in Crab, East Village, Japanese, Noodles, Seafood, Soba