Pambazo

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
November 6, 2005

BONITA [CLOSED]
338 Bedford Ave
(S 2nd & S 3rd Sts)
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718-384-9500

I have not been this excited about food since I first moved back to New York five years ago. I remember the wonderful sensation I felt each time I was introduced to a great dining experience at restaurants like Lupa, Omen, Blue Ribbon Bakery and more, all thanks to my very good food-loving friend, Adria. Lately, it’s been harder to find places that are actually so authentically and honestly good, as well as not a scene, and above all not just a PR stunt.

Bonita effectively takes me back five years. It’s laid back. The staff — and even the customers — are fun and friendly. And it’s not just a neighborhood restaurant nor even just a Mexican joint, but in the end an awesome indulgence in the vibrant taste of Mexico! I know I’m beginning to sound like I’m five, but how can I put this… I love Bonita!

If you are paying attention then you’ll notice that this was my second brunch in the same day, but when the food is yummy, who’s counting? I was actually sitting at the bar just having a drink, but as I watched the cooks prepare a pambazo in front of me in their open kitchen, I knew I had to have one of those too.

Pambazo is grilled, spicy house-ground chorizo sausage and potato and sandwiched in a bun that is dredged in Guajillo pepper sauce and grilled, with avocado and sour cream. I don’t know about you, but my mouth is watering as I write this piece. Call me a pig, but I couldn’t devour that large sandwich quickly enough.

I was enjoying my horchata while waiting for my order and watching more dishes being prepared, which was a real pleasure. Horchata is a rice drink made with rice, almonds, cloves, and cinnamon, all soaked together overnight and then ground and strained in cheesecloth. It’s very light with the subtle scent and taste of the grains, nuts and spices.

Of course, I’ve been back to Bonita to try other dishes on their menu, and in particular I would highly recommend the lime soup and fish tacos. I’ll keep going not only to try more things but also just to be in a restaurant that is truly relaxing, unpretentious and good for the soul.

Also in Mexican, Pork, Sandwich, Williamsburg

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