Mini Comté Burgers

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
June 30, 2008

LE CIRQUE WINE LOUNGE
151 E 58th St
(Lexington & 3rd Aves)
New York, NY 10022
212-644-0202

Le Cirque needs no introduction. Through two facelifts, it’s remained a New York classic since 1974. Originally Le Cirque on East 65th Street, it was then Le Cirque 2000 in the Palace Hotel, and now it’s back to Le Cirque but in the new Bloomberg building on East 58th Street. Over the years, it’s been a staple for bankers and tourists alike, a very formal dining affair.

Through its multiple iterations, it has transformed itself from old school classic to modern classic, and now with the wine lounge, the audience continues to broaden, reaching a more casual crowd who can watch TV at the bar, enjoy lite-bites and drinks but not have to dress too formally (no jackets required). There’s even music, live at times, in the bar area.

I find the TV to be rather inappropriate even for a more “causal” environment, but I understand that during the day, traders must follow MSNBC obsessively. But perhaps after hours is time to turn off the television and enjoy good company and the delicious food prepared by Chef Christophe Bellanca. He’s created an entirely new menu, including an all-day bar menu, in addition to prix-fixe for lunch and dinner respectively.

The bar menu is an approachable list of 20 plus dishes, including some outstanding items. The tuna tataki with carpaccio of daikon and avocado, sesame vinaigrette, yuzu cucumber granité and seaweed salad is a magnificently light starter for this time of year. The tuna, daikon and avocado are sliced so thin, and the yuzu cucumber granité is a surprisingly cool and refreshing touch that dissolves as soon as it hits your tongue. It took me about two seconds to finish this elegant plate.

Everyone at the bar was raving about the mini Comté burgers. There’s also regular mini cheeseburgers on the menu, but when I inquired which was better, there was no contest; the Comté burgers won unanimously. One order serves two mini burgers, so it’s a perfect share. The Comté is melted over the beef patty, and the chanterelle and oyster mushrooms are rich and creamy. I should have been burgered out by now since I’ve tasted so many lately, but these were irresistible. Fries accompanied, and I had too many of those as well.

Surprisingly, the tortelli amatriciana was not a hit for me. These little tortelli, about six to a plate, were stuffed with guanciale and tomato and dusted with shaved pecorino. The guanciale was too salty and the tomato too sweet, and the marriage of the two resulted more in bickering than union on my palate.

But the cheese plate for dessert saved the day. It’s a selection of three or five, but there actually aren’t that many cheeses to choose from. Still, it was a very amiable way to unwind and end a meal of delicious small plates.

The lounge has 30 wines by the glass available for “tastes” or “pours,” which is another great plus. The bar menu itself has many suggested beverage pairings. I love variety and this way I can try something different with every plate. How brilliant! For lunch, cocktails, or dinner, Le Cirque Wine Lounge is a great option in Midtown for stellar food, and no longer a too-stuffy atmosphere.

Also in Burgers, French, Midtown East