Gusto Ristorante e Bar Americano

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
April 30, 2010

POLPETTINE ALLA SICILIANA
(Sicilian meatballs with pine nuts & currants in tomato sauce)
60 Greenwich Ave
(5th & 10th Sts)
New York, NY 10011
212-924-8000

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng

Gusto Ristorante e Bar Americano’s got a bit of a split personality — it’s a relaxed neighborhood restaurant with consistently solid food, but the décor leans towards a trendy lounge of a bygone era. As you know, food à la mode is not my style, but consistent quality speaks to me, and that’s where Gusto succeeds! In fact, this neighborhood joint that I had nearly forgotten about has called me back four times in the past few weeks.

Gusto’s had a couple of chefs in the six years since it opened. Chef Saul Montiel, formerly the sous chef, is now in charge, and he’s doing a fine job maintaining the consistently high quality.

A couple of signature dishes are not to be missed, including my favorite salad right now: fava beans with escarole, pecorino, mint, basil and lime. The beans are fresh and tender, and the combination of lime and mint on the cheese-dusted greens is perfection.

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng

The homemade raviolo filled with bufala ricotta and egg in sage butter, topped with fried leeks and pancetta, is also delightful. When you cut into the large raviolo, the egg yolk oozes into the sage butter sauce. The pancetta and the fried leeks are so thin and crisp, it accents — without overpowering — the soft bufala ricotta.

The Sicilian meatballs with pine nuts and raisins in tomato sauce is downright comfort food that I consistently crave. Not too sweet, the currants in the meatballs contrast the finely ground meat and crunchy pine nuts. If you prefer your meatballs over spaghetti, the wait staff will happily recommend an order or half order of the tonnarelli con cacio é pepe (homemade pasta with pecorino romano and cracked black pepper) to make your own meatball pasta. It’s a great recommendation!

The pizette is a nice starter. The texture is more like a flat bread than a thicker pizza dough. The fresh ricotta, roasted grapes, prosciutto and aged balsamic is one of my favorites because of the well balanced flavor profiles — sweet, savory and a touch of sour — or you can choose your own toppings for a customized pizette.

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng

Dinner would not be complete without a little taste of sweets — and some grappa! The torta di banana, banana cake topped with bruléed bananas accompanied by a chocolate cocoa mousse is delicate and delicious. After all, banana and chocolate are a match made in heaven.

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng

Gusto recently started delivery service, which is excellent news for those who live in the West Village. The food is undoubtedly good and comforting, but I think it would help if they updated their décor and playlist to be a little less last decade and ease into the comfort of now.

Also in Italian, Pasta, Pizza, Salad, West Village