Chile En Nogada (stuffed Poblano peppers)

by Cristy-Lucie Alvarado
November 23, 2007

BARRIO CHINO
253 Broome St
(Ludlow & Orchard Sts)
New York, NY 10002
212-228-6710

Living on the border of Mexico for eighteen years biased me somewhat towards Mexican food in New York City. Bonita’s tortillas are too thick, Rosa Mexicano is too pricey, La Esquina is too pretentious, and El Sombrero (The Hat) doesn’t serve tacos al pastor — irresistible two-bite tacos typically garnished with onion, cilantro and lime.

Somehow though, I managed to stumble upon Barrio Chino a couple of summers ago while searching for fresh fruit cocktails. Spanish for “Chinese neighborhood” in reference to its location in the Chinatown vicinty, Barrio Chino is now the only Mexican restaurant I set foot in. Their tacos are legit, their margaritas are truly worth the $9, and my favorite dish, usually served exclusively during pomegranate season, is served year-round*: chile en nogada.

Barrio Chino delivers its version of the stuffed chile with incredible grace. The mild poblano chile is grilled and stuffed with a festive mix of ground pork, pears, apples, almonds, and raisins. I could probably stop here, but there’s more. This wonderful little package is covered in a white blanket of creamy walnut sauce, and when in season, sprinkled with plump pomegranate seeds. And as if that weren’t enough, it’s accompanied by a scoop of green rice.

Now I would eat this in the scummiest, emptiest, most desolate hole in the wall, but I don’t have to. The cozy, dimly lit room is raw, unpolished, and adorned with a dash of Chinese flair, paying homage to the mix of Chinese and Latin cultures in the area, and thanks to their extensive selection of tequilas (hence the killer margaritas), Barrio Chino has a great bar scene, at a key location on Broome Street on the Lower East Side.

I’m due for my fix this week!

Note: The chile en nogada is served year-round at dinner and sometimes for lunch.

Also in LES, Mexican, Pork