Chicken Soup w/ Herb Dumplings

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
June 14, 2006

BOUCHON BAKERY
10 Columbus Circle, 3F
@ 60th St
New York, NY 10023
212-823-9366

Bouchon Bakery seems like an answer to our prayers: Thomas Keller’s causal café at plebeian fares, if you consider $11.25 for chicken soup “plebeian.” This is where I struggle. The chicken soup is excellent, a top in this city, and hence, the quality-price ratio for this dish is balanced. But on the whole, Bouchon Bakery is overpriced. I’m not saying that I would expect any differently, since it’s Thomas Keller and since it’s in the atrocious Time Warner Center. All I’m saying is that it’s not going to be my neighborhood mall hangout. Wait a minute… I don’t hang out at malls.

The chicken soup is amazing! The brown broth, which tastes richer than most chicken broths, reminds me of a nice beef consommé. The free range chicken should be the example to all of how chicken should be cooked, taste and feel. Most of the time, my issue with chicken is the dried out texture it gets when it’s even mildly overcooked. This one is not stringy, chewy or rubbery but just right. The vegetables were your staple carrots, celery and onions. There is also a distinct anise flavor, so I presume that fennel was added as a part of the vegetable mixture. Strangely, the dumplings were my least favorite part of the dish, probably because I felt like they were too heavy for such a pure soup. They did add a buttery flavor, but I found them unnecessary. At the same time, I am mindful that people have different palates, and I can see how the dumplings could liven dish for some.

You can’t eat at Bouchon Bakery and not try the desserts. I had the TKO — Thomas Keller Oreo — two flower-shaped chocolate cookies sandwiching a white chocolate ganache filling, accompanied by a single scoop of vanilla ice cream. While this is listed under “cookies,” it’s really a complete serving of dessert. It’s rather large and should be savored over teatime, rather than as a quick relief to satiate a temporary sweet tooth. And at $5.75, it’s hard to call it just a cookie. The cookie was yummy, but half way through, I got a little bored. It probably would have been ideal to share it with someone. The vanilla ice cream was too sweet. But overall, I really dug the concept. There is also a Nutter Butter version, which I hear is a true killer for peanut butter cookie fans.

As much as I dislike the Time Warner Center, I must say that sitting at the café on the third floor overlooking the atrium and entrance of the mall on a leisurely afternoon wasn’t so bad. If you are in the Columbus Circle area or at the mall, then at least you have a very good option for a light fare or snack. My experience left me feeling very clean, healthy and happy — that’s not something you say after leaving most malls, not even the fancy ones.

Also in American, Chicken, Soup, UWS