BLT

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
September 14, 2007

UNION SQUARE CAFE
21 E 16th St
(5th Ave & Union Square W)
New York, NY 10003
212-243-4020

Friday lunches at Union Square Café are becoming a habit. It was so crowded at the bar at 1:30 this afternoon that my sister and I had to settle for a table. Everyone was enjoying a leisurely lunch, which is exactly why regulars frequent this classic New York institution, known for it’s sophisticated but laid back atmosphere, impeccable service, and top notch food.

USC’s clientele says a lot about the place; customers tend to the older side, as many have been regulars for more than 20 years. And it’s the consistent service and precise focus on hospitality that have earned USC this loyal following. There are other restaurants whose food I might prefer over USC’s — though, naturally, it’s quite good — but at the end of the day, I would rather come here because it is just so inviting and comfortable. The space is bright and cheerful, as is the staff, but never imposing or annoying, and the jazz playing in the background is relaxing but also adds a pleasant buzz to the bustling restaurant. They don’t call Danny Meyer Mr. Hospitality for nothing. His restaurants truly raise the bar for service in the City. From the maître d’ and the bar tender to the wait staff, everyone is professional, pleasant and patient. I think every restaurant should strive to achieve A+’s on the 3-P’s.

Right now, while tomatoes are still in season, there’s a BLT on the lunch menu. Served on grilled Tom Cat sourdough, with Niman Ranch bacon, Greenmarket tomatoes and arugula, with a side of new potato salad, it was the near perfect lunch. And the side order of Greenmarket sweet corn and a glass of the Cru Beaujolais, Juliénas 2005 Domaine Marius Sangouard, Trenel, made it the perfect lunch.

The sandwich is simple, but the fresh, clean ingredients really make it standout. The BLT is my favorite sandwich of all time because of its simplicity and balance: bacon — all the flavor one could need — with the healthy complements of tomato and greens, sandwiched between mayonnaise-coated bread — what could be better?! The new potato salad is a great side with crunchy pieces of celery and a mildly sour vinegar flavor to counter the saltiness of the bacon. The fresh corn sautéed in butter was yet another classic but savory addition to the meal. The BLT, potato salad and corn were like three pieces of a puzzle that fit together seamlessly. As we slowly move into fall, this ideal summer meal helped prolong the joys of the season. And with the Greenmarket right around the corner, it was reassuring to see where much of the produce came from.

From a very young age, I was encouraged by my father to go into hotel management. Our family is keen on good service and attentiveness. While I did not choose a career in that area, I do appreciate those in the service industry, particularly restaurants, committed to mastering all the little details. Danny Meyer runs his restaurants like hotels, with customer satisfaction as his top priority. Too many restaurants in New York focus on how they want to project their image, hiring staff for the way they look and the attitudes they portray — that may be trend-setting, but it won’t draw loyalty, and definitely not for twenty plus years. The formula seems quite simple to me, and yet, sadly, few have yet to master or even come close to the dignified easy charm of this best-in-class restaurant, Union Square Café.

Also in American, Lunch, Sandwich, Union Square