Abistro

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
March 27, 2009

BLACKENED CATFISH
154 Carlton Ave
(Myrtle & Willoughby Aves)
Brooklyn, NY 11205
718-855-9455

One thing I love about going to BAM (Brooklyn Acadamy of Music) in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, in addition to the performances themselves, is trying restaurants in the neighborhood. A couple of Fridays ago, after Batsheva Dance Company’s Max, I revisited Abistro, which was just as wonderful as the performance.

Abistro, owned and run by husband and wife team Abdoul and Cassandra Gueye, serves West African fusion cuisine. Originally from Senegal, Chef Gueye incorporates his classical training and Asian ingredients to create a successful fusion of African, French and Asian fare.

Cassandra runs the front of the house, and her presence makes everyone feel welcome and taken care of, especially when there’s a wait. Another welcoming aspect of this small but lively restaurant is that it’s BYOB. Could it get any better?

On the evening of my visit, the specials, starting with the soup, were creative and delectable. A flourless vegetarian purée of potato and roasted garlic with pieces of lobster and spiced apple, the soup emitted the sweet fragrance of garlic and fruit. The lobster, which tasted poached, was soft and tender.

Next were the pastelles, African stuffed pastries (like empanadas). Though a special, Cassandra told us they are on the menu every week except for that of Valentine’s Day. On the two occasions I dined at Abistro, I tried both varieties of pastelle — the salmon and the vegetable — and each time I favored the vegetable; though both fillings are finely ground, the veggie flavors truly flourish.

One of the entrée specials was blackened catfish with black bean sauce, corn salsa, coconut sautéed plantains, and sautéed vegetables. Another wonderful surprise, all the flavors — while individually strong — complemented one another. The crunchiness of the corn contrasted the smoothness of the catfish and puréed black bean sauce. The plantains were sweet and supple with hints of coconut and maple syrup, and a vegetable medley of bok choi, spinach and mushrooms could have convinced me to become vegetarian.

The only dish I ordered from the regular menu was the Senegalese fried chicken, which was both misleading and disappointing because it was not deep-fried but rather pan-fried pieces of dry, hard white meat. Served with pineapple-infused jasmine rice cake and Senegalese salsa in a dijonnaise sauce, there were too many overpowering flavors, which in contrast, highlighted the delicious and simple flavors of the wilted vegetables. This is the type of dish that gives chicken a bad name and why I avoided ordering chicken off menus for years.

Luckily, dessert made me forget all about the chicken. The sweet potato pecan pie, though too rich to finish, is worth ordering just to taste a decadent bite or two. Served in a ramekin, it’s not a traditional slice of pie, but that doesn’t mean it’s not scrumptious.

Abistro is a popular spot; even at 9pm there was a good 20-minute wait, and with good reason. It houses good grub, good vibes and merriment all around. Doesn’t that sound like somewhere you’d want to be?

Also in African, Fish, Fort Greene, Seafood, Vegetables