Get Inside Those Bones
by Cynthia Sin-Yi Cheng
October 7, 2009
Cynthia Sin-Yi Cheng
Knickerbocker
33 University Pl
@ 9th St
New York, NY 10003
212-228-8490
Casellula
401 W 52nd St
(9th & 10th Aves)
New York, NY 10019
212-247-8137
Ilili
236 5th Ave
(27th & 28th Sts)
New York, NY 10001
212-683-2929
Bone marrows are a taste of my childhood. I grew up on the beef consommé with bone marrow at a Swiss restaurant that my family frequented in Taipei (It’s not as random as it may sound since my parents lived in Zurich when they first got married).
Recently, I’ve seen bone marrow making a comeback on menus across town, across cuisines and in new presentations.
Last month we took my mom to Knickerbocker for the bone marrow, a then-brand new menu item, and she is still talking about it. At Knickerbocker, the bone is split down the middle lengthwise, for easier access to the good stuff, and served with a cipollinii onion and golden raisin marmalade and toast points ($12.50). It’s grouped on the menu with a few other revised dishes from famous establishments as this is an adaptation of Trattoria da Alfredo’s dish from the 60s.
The Lebanese bone marrow at Ilili ($15) comes with a sour cherry tabbouleh which strikes a good balance between sweetness and acidity and adds a bit of greens. It’s also accompanied by the most adorable pita pillows! (see photo above)
Cheese heaven Casellula’s rendition of the dish ($9) was rich and decadent. The accompanying homemade bacon brioche made a perfect bed for the bone marrow. I paired it with the 2006 Thalvin-Alain Graillot “Syrocco” ($48), a stellar Morrocan Syrah. I’m a big fan of Graillot, both of his Rhône reds and whites, so this wine was an exciting discovery!
Bone marrow is so rich and tasty. With a glass of bubbly and a salad, I’ll have it as a main. Although the new bigger servings are great to share!
