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Eggs Three Ways

November 14, 2007
Cynthia Sin-Yi Cheng

EGGS ROTHKO

Egg
135 N 5th St
(Bedford Ave & Berry St)
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718-302-5151

UOVO IN RAVIOLO AL BURRO NOCCIOLA TARTUFATO
(handmade soft egg-yolk-filled raviolo w/ a truffle butter sauce)

San Domenico
240 Central Park S
(Broadway & 7th Ave)
New York, NY 10019
212-265-5959

In Taiwan where I grew up, it seemed egg was present at every meal. For breakfast, we could get a hamburger topped with a crispy fried egg; lunch boxes of pork chop rice come with a tea-infused egg. Even desserts abound with custard variations.

I’m still as fond of eggs as ever and search for examples that succeed in capturing their versatile textures. For breakfast, I frequent Egg in Williamsburg for their eggs Rothko ($6.50). I love the combination of the yolk topped with sharp melted Grafton Cheddar all swimming in the cutout hole of a slice of brioche bread.

My most recent egg love, however, is the uovo in raviolo al burrro nocciola tartufato ($23) from San Domenico. This delicate dish is a fist-size raviolo filled with light, fluffy ricotta, spinach and a runny egg yolk in the middle. When you cut into the center of the raviolo, the golden yolk oozes out. Subtle yet striking, it is a deliciously sensual dish.

Two weekends ago, while attempting to satiate a craving, I whipped up my version of an egg croissant. I took two farm eggs and scrambled them with some arugula and Cheddar, then added a few cuts of a very spicy yellow pepper to give it a punch. With the croissant I had picked up from Le Pain Quotidien, this made for a very satisfying lazy Sunday breakfast at home. Call it Cyn’s Devilish Egg Croissant!

Hashbrowns A. Egg

What they call “hashbrowns” at Egg, I call a fireball of a deep-fried potato! It’s about the size of a baseball, deep-fried until crispy and golden brown. Round, full and spiky in shape, this hot potato is soft and steamy on the inside. For a potato lover, this is one dreamy hashbrown and a good accompaniment to the rest of Egg’s famed brunch selection.

Eggs Rothko B. Egg

In Taiwan where I grew up, it seemed egg was present at every meal. For breakfast, we could get a hamburger topped with a crispy fried egg; lunch boxes of pork chop rice come with a tea-infused egg. Even desserts abound with custard variations.

I’m still as fond of eggs as ever and search for examples that succeed in capturing their... full article

Raviolo al burrro nocciola tartufato C. SD 26

My most recent egg love, however, is the uovo in raviolo al burrro nocciola tartufato ($23) from SD26. This delicate dish is a fist-size raviolo filled with light, fluffy ricotta, spinach and a runny egg yolk in the middle. When you cut into the center of the raviolo, the golden yolk oozes out. Subtle yet striking, it is a deliciously sensual dish.

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