In Taiwan where I grew up, it seemed egg was present at every meal. For breakfast, we could get a hamburger topped with a crispy fried egg; lunch boxes of pork chop rice come with a tea-infused egg. Even desserts abound with custard variations.

I’m still as fond of eggs as ever and search for examples that succeed in capturing their versatile textures. For breakfast, I frequent Egg in Williamsburg for their eggs Rothko ($6.50). I love the combination of the yolk topped with sharp melted Grafton Cheddar all swimming in the cutout hole of a slice of brioche bread.