Our concierge Ane at the Hotel Maria Christina, a lovely young lady who helped obtain reservations for all my meals, was my angel — I had a very precise list, and she patiently worked it all out. She really understood my taste; when we did finally arrive and got to meet her in person, she recommended Bar Zabaleta for its tortilla. Bar Zabaleta is on the other side of the river of San Sebastian, in a residential area that is the antithesis of the touristic pintxo bars in Parte Vieja. We tried the famed tortilla at Bar Nestor first, then the tortilla at Bar Zabaleta; Zabaleta’s tortilla was the clear winner. The consistency of the tortilla had the perfect balance of crisp on the outside and silky gooeyness on the inside. It was so good that it was the last thing I wanted to have on the day we left San Sebastian — a little slice of San Sebastian goodness for a proper send-off. A brilliant little neighborhood café, Bar Zabaleta is both understated and unsuspecting.