Of all the fun and exciting items on Talde’s menu, the “whole roasted branzino” did not jump out at me initially because I thought it was going to be just another whole roasted branzino. I didn’t know that this one is deboned and stuffed with tomato turmeric jam, wrapped in a banana leaf and then roasted in the oven. Chef and co-owner Dale Talde’s special touch doesn’t stop there. Out of the oven the branzino is topped with a salad of Thai basil, cilantro and dill and served with a steamer of moo shu pancakes. The dish is a vivid experience, from the flavors of that fantastic tomato turmeric jam — charred tomatoes, cooked-down shallots, ginger, palm sugar, fish sauce, coriander, turmeric and cardamom — to the DIY fun of assembling the moo shu pancakes. The fish is so perfectly portioned and deboned that there’s no mess involved; a scoop of fish, jam and herbs fit neatly in pancake after pancake until, before you know it, all the fish and pancakes are gone. What a divine dish!