I love the multitude of flavors, textures and colors in this beautiful dish from chef Lee Cooper. The bounty of four local British Columbian farms is laid out on the plate with precision and care. Bright orange, just warmed-through steelhead trout fillet and crunchy deep-fried pieces of potato nestle on a Dijon mustard and mayonnaise base. Dotted among them like jewels in a royal crown are white-rimmed pink radishes, pickled garlic and baby cabbage and dill leaves dressed simply in olive oil and lemon juice. A soft-boiled egg half and a dusting of grated fresh horseradish add smooth, rich and bitter notes. Cooper says he especially likes the sharp flavors of the horseradish, dill and mustard, and that steelhead works best because it’s strong enough to stand up to those forceful flavors.