We tried three very different main dishes: grilled sea bass, roasted pork chest and veal cutlets. The same deft touch pervaded all three dishes, but the veal was the standout. It came with “forgotten vegetables,” a selection of locally grown heirloom vegetables. Some I could identify as variants on beets and parsnips but others I had never seen or tasted. The veal was simply grilled and had a lovely cream sauce whose richness was beautifully cut with a small arugula salad.