This is a drool-inducing dish. The noodles have a good amount of koshi (firmness or chewiness) that provides a satisfying mouth experience; the pork belly is an indulgent gestalt of grilled meat and fat; and the green onion and bean sprouts are crisp. What really makes the dish distinct — and justifies waiting in Totto Ramen’s long lines — is the housemade rayu (chili oil). At most ramen places, rayu is a relatively mild and cheap-tasting off-the-shelf condiment. But Totto Ramen’s rayu is packed with both heat and flavor — including garlic, red pepper, black pepper (surprise!) and a nice base of rich sesame oil — and infuses the chicken and soy sauce soup base with some flavors similar to yukkaejang (spicy Korean beef soup) or, more properly, dakkaejang (the chicken version of yukkaejang), but with less sweetness and bitterness.

Note: The spicy ramen rayu includes just a couple types of chili peppers, but the extreme spicy ramen incorporates around 10 different types. The extreme spicy sauce is served on the side so customers can control the level of heat.