If you haven’t been to a pop-up meal by Jonathan Wu, try to get a seat at one of the upcoming dinners on March 24, April 7 or April 28 at the Bowery Station (email firstname.lastname@example.org for reservations). Wu, a Per Se alum, started his pop-up dinners and brunches last year at venues including No. 7 and Pinkerton Wine Bar. Having tried both brunch and dinner, I am eagerly awaiting Wu’s own restaurant. I was dazzled by his take on modern Chinese, not just his sheer creativity but also how well he melds traditional Chinese flavors with non-traditional cooking methods and ingredients. For instance, in his roasted beets with garlic chives, aged bean curd and century egg, Wu infuses Chinese ingredients with freshness and vitality. I also loved his raw bok choy with shrimp paste, which involves dehydrated shrimp in tomato paste and the use of the “Chinese trinity”: scallion, ginger and garlic. Wu says eating some limp and unappetizing overcooked bok choy led him to realize how delicious and crisp raw bok choy is — why mess with that? I don’t usually opt for mussels, but the smoked blue mussels from Maine with scallion oil and thinly sliced kumquats were so refreshing, they left a deep impression on me. And the beef soup with black eggs, white radish and watercress reminded me of my favorite beef noodle soup in Taipei. You can taste how Jonathan Wu pours his heart and soul into these inventively delicious creations.