I’ve always been fascinated by the concept of the sweet potato pie, and I certainly have tried my share. Yet while the traditional sweet potato pie can be a more leaden version of pumpkin pie, Oceana Executive Pastry Chef Jansen Chan’s rendition is a miracle of lightness, elegance and playfulness. He cooks the puree on the stovetop till it’s dry, passes it through a tamis, or screen, then adds butter, sugar, lemon juice and beaten egg whites to create a texture that’s a cross between a mousse and a soufflé. Midway through devouring the pie, an intensely lemony curd comes flowing out, looking like the runny yolk of an egg. There’s just a bare mention of black pepper sprinkled throughout the ethereally flaky shell and in the ice cream. Two types of lemon accents tie it all together: a deliciously tart curd and a softer citrus crème fraîche. The overall effect is complex, symphonically layered and utterly delicious.