Graffiato’s industrial décor, wood-burning oven and simple pizza-and-small-plates menu are all of a piece with the artisanal look and delicious taste of Chef Mike Isabella’s pizzas. What come as a surprise, however, are the delicate touch and assured mastery of his signature agnolotti, which seem to belong to a much fancier and more expensive restaurant. In summer, the sweet corn filling (and it is truly sweet) is little more than the raw kernels tossed with their own juices and some mascarpone cheese. The hand-cut agnolotti are gilded with a light and lemony butter sauce, then graced with wood-roasted chanterelles and toasted pine nuts. It’s a champagne dish next to the beer-friendly pizza, but who cares? It all tastes good.