Since it opened in New York in 2007, I have hailed Soto as my favorite sushi restaurant in town. Not only is chef owner Sotohiro Kosugi’s sushi fresh and delicious, but the appetizers prepared by his wife in the kitchen are also spectacular. Marked by subtle flavors, perfect pairings and delicate craftsmanship, even the simplest dishes like chawanmushi (egg custard) have an exquisitely light texture with complete clarity of aromas. But at the end of the day, what I cannot live without is the 12-piece omakase sushi. Just watching Chef Kosugi prep the fishes he’s selected for me and dress them carefully with choice sauces is almost as pleasurable as eating the pieces of nigirizushi he hands over.