From a restaurant that offers a tremendous selection of wonderful dishes from appetizers to desserts, this is one that lingers in the mind. Flavorful rectangles of grilled lamb loin are nicely charred around the edges and pink-tender within. The lamb is perfectly complemented by sweet, caramelized Algerian eggplant and a silky eggplant puree streaked with harissa-scented oil. To offset the heat, there’s a dollop of herbed yogurt and, for crunch, crispy lavash. As someone who likes plenty of accompaniments with lamb or beef, I appreciate the protein-to-vegetable-to-dairy ratio on this plate: every forkful is a delicious miniature of the artfully composed whole.