I don’t know if there are any vegetarian lumberjacks, but if there are, I’ve found the perfect meal for them at Durham’s only gas station-turned-gastropub. The southern veggie plate is probably more of a brunch or lunch thing, but really could be eaten any time. A little like a salade composée for hungry Southern dudes, its component parts include jalapeño-Cheddar hush puppies, fried green tomatoes, sweet potato hash, braised collard greens and hoppin’ John, the classic southern dish of rice and black-eyed peas with the addition of Cheddar, scallions and tomato, and sans the usual bacon or other pork product. That orange-y sauce in the middle is the house “srirachanaise,” a mixture of sriracha and mayonnaise. I’m neither Southern nor a dude, but I loved the dish’s flavors and variety.

Owner Andy Magowan mercilessly made fun of my northern-ness when I mistook the hush puppies for falafel, but they do bear a passing resemblance, in looks though not in taste. Asked what kind of rice is in the hoppin’ John, Magowan searched for a way to express how irrelevant the question was, and replied, “It’s what-have-ya.” I like that; no one gets hung up on prissy details like varietal names here.