My favorite homestyle Shanghainese joint in town. The owner is also the cook. She just whips up whatever is the freshest produce of the day. You can go through the daily specials with her verbally, or just ask her to put together a selection for your table. She is open for both lunch and dinner, but a reservation is a must at this four-table “hole in the wall.” I vouch for everything, but ask for the snails to start with (minced pork and snail meat, mixed with spice, is reinserted and cooked in the shell; you’ll need a toothpick to enjoy this dish, but it’s totally worth the extra work). Feel free to bring your own wine for a real feast!