I didn’t always enjoy eating raw squid. The chewy texture was tedious and unpalatable. But several years ago, I learned that when raw cuttlefish is cut thinly, it can be so tender. An absolute delight. The sepia crudo at Betto is living proof. The light ribbons of sepia from the Coast of Spain are drizzled with Ligurian olive oil — which has lots of citrus fruit flavors to complement seafood — then garnished with herbs and radish tails. It’s a refreshingly delicious starter that redefines squid as we know it.