Some dishes are showstoppers, even from first glance of the menu. The sea urchin spaghetti at Battersby is just that. Any one of the key words “spaghetti,” “sea urchin,” “chili” and “lemon” would have grabbed my attention, but all four in one dish? Everything else on the menu faded into the background. The homemade spaghetti is square rather than round, and as fresh pasta usually does, comes out softer than dried pasta. The creamy sea urchin sauce is richly buttery. Lemon gives the dish a burst of brightness to complement the flavors of the sea. And I love that the pasta has a real kick — those chilies are not subtle. Topped with breadcrumbs, the crunch in each bite contrasts with the softer texture of the spaghetti. I have tasted many sea urchin pastas, but this one at Battersby has just the right balance. I can only hope that it will join Battersby’s kale salad as a permanent signature dish on the menu.