Every time I open a wine list in the City, I see a Channing Daughters wine available by-the-glass. Recent sightings include DBGB, Gramercy Tavern and L’Artusi. Christopher is the most adventurous winemaker on Long Island as he grows a wide variety of grapes (Sylvanus, Muscat Ottonel, Malvasia, Blaufränkisch, just to name a few) and experiments with different blends and styles of winemaking. His Over & Over-Variation 2, a red blend of Merlot, Syrah and Dornfedler, is made in a ripasso-meets-solera style. It is a complex wine geek’s wine. One of my favorites is his Envelope. Here, he marries Chardonnay with Gewurtraminer and Malvasia.

Although I like most of CD’s wines, I find the whites to be their real forté. There are 24 stellar options. My go-to is the Mudd Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ($20). After tasting several wines from Mudd Vineyard, I think I just have a thing for this particular terroir. I also like the 2008 Tocai Friulano from Mudd ($24). This is a 100% varietal wine, rare for Christopher, who is a blender. The Tocai Friulano defines his wines: layered, hard to pinpoint, complex and with good weight.

Of the two Tocais in his portfolio, I liked the 2007 vintage ($24) even more. It’s more viscous and structured than the Mudd Tocai. All the fruits come from the Sylvanus vineyard in Bridgehampton. The freshness and tartness of pink grapefruit dominate the flavor profile, and it’s just the type of white you wish you had cases of year-round.