Delamotte Rosé NV*
Village: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (Grand Cru), Côte des Blancs; Blend: 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay; Style: Rosé; Attributes: Elegant, subtlety, pronounced minerality, hints of red fruits, made in the rare saignée method, drinks like a white burgundy.

First Impression: Delicate.

The Moment: October 10, 2008. A suite in the newly-opened Thompson LES hotel in New York. A by-appointment, trade-only tasting with Jean-Baptiste Cristini, Director of Export for Salon/Delamotte, and members of Wilson Daniels, their importer. Cristini, who exudes knowledge and passion for champagne, is a charmer with an approachable personality. And kudos for the event planning; the choice of hotel relaxed what could have otherwise been a stuffy event had it been hosted at, say, the St. Regis or some other midtown establishment. It was a laidback but focused way to present the Delamotte portfolio and the latest release of the 1997 Salon.

Pairings: Try it with raw seafood or a lightly seasoned cooked seafood dish.

Context: I’d want to enjoy this with like-minded lovers of champagne. Definitely not for mindless sipping, this is a wine worth savoring and discussing. And I would definitely want to handpick the company with whom I’d do this.

Where to find it:
NEW YORK: Acker Merrall & Condit ($85) 212-787-1700.