Chef Floyd Cardoz’s long-awaited Indian restaurant Paowalla is a delight! Located in the old Mezzogiorno SoHo space on the corner of Spring and Sullivan Streets, Paowalla has a cozy neighborhood feel, just as the former occupant did. Friends had recommended the selection of Indian breads and chutneys on the menu, which are delicious, but for me, the standout was really the roasted sweet potato chaat. I was initially worried that roasted sweet potato might be too heavy, but the sweet potatoes are just one component in a medley of ingredients that are proportioned just right — the dish bursts with brightness and pop, with layers of depth that keep unraveling with each bite. My friend aptly described it as “a party in your mouth,” given the varied textures and balance of flavors, including crispy apple, crunchy peanuts, herbaceous mint and cilantro chutney, sweet tamarind chutney, tart pomegranate seeds, pungent red onion, crunchy poha (flattened rice) and sev (noodles made from chickpea flour paste). Service at Paowalla is also excellent — the friendly attentiveness of each staff member, from the general manager to the hostess, made us feel well taken care of. That warm, fuzzy feeling is a guarantee that I will be back.