By eye, a pretty blur of salmon-pink; yet the nose gives away the vegetal identity of the rhubarb — in a way that isn’t all that enticing — until the taste wins you back. Surprisingly, it’s not too sweet, and it’s devoid of the sourness one would find in a rhubarb-apple pie, with as well no hint of tartness. This bellini is a wonderful combination of light sparkler and a savory-yet-sweet infusion of earth-grown flavors.

With a wonderful mouthfeel, this spring aperitif carries hints of grapefruit without the sharp acidity. It also has a bit of weight to it, unlike the commonly airy sparkling mixed drinks. And just at the very end a hint of tartness creeps up — adding a bit of twist and dimension!

I learned that the fresh fruit is juiced then mixed in with simple syrup. The rhubarb comes selectively from Richter’s farm in Fife, Oregon. The night I was there the prosecco being poured to make this bellini was Rivalta.