Commerce is the latest restaurant to occupy the historic location at 50 Commerce Street in the West Village. Tucked in the nook of the winding road, the restaurant is unassuming, and hence was once an ideal location for a speakeasy during the Depression. Chef and co-owner Harold Moore’s talent is evident in everything that comes out of the kitchen. The ragu of odd things, though an appetizer, was rich enough to satisfy as an entrée. The smooth hand-rolled orecchiette was the ideal texture to pair with the varied textures of the oxtail, trotters and tripe. Even if you don’t like outlandish offal stews, I’d keep an open mind about this dish as the flavor is balanced and the textures are exceptional. To fully utilize the dining room’s space at Commerce, the tables are slightly crammed. But the atmosphere is lively, so it’s a good place to go for bustling energy when you don’t mind hearing your neighbor’s conversations and making new friends.