With its industrial, rough-around the edges décor, deep list of rare Italian brews and an all-embracing nose-to-tail ethic, Alla Spina is the Marc Vetri family of restaurant’s tattooed little brother. Amid a gem-studded menu that includes crab and horseradish deviled eggs and pigtails agrodolce, it is the beer and Chef Pat Szoke’s ever-changing menu of house-made charcuterie that will draw me back. You’ll always find some form of terrine, a salami and Szoke’s sublimely silky version of prosciutto cotto ham on the menu. The latter has been injected with and allowed to sit in an herb-rich brine for two weeks then poached all day. Accompaniments change seasonally. Now the proscuito cotto is paired with a shaved apple and celery root salad, dressed lightly with a mixture of whipped cream, Dijon mustard, parsley and finished with a drizzle of black walnut pesto. In the fall it stepped out with whipped ricotta and marinated figs (pictured here, along with a fennel sausage with peach mostarda and fennel seed oil). Whether you’re craving brine-smoked beef tongue pastrami or venison cotechino, Alla Spina —which also, by the way, features an adventurous drinks program — has your salumi needs covered.