One of the oddities of Ireland, at least to me, is that although it’s an island nation surrounded by sea, the Irish seem far less partial to seafood than to meat. Though who can blame them when they’ve got lamb from Kerry and Connemara and beef braised in Guinness? At this cozy bistro specializing in “international cuisine,” meat as usual plays a major role on the menu, including that ubiquitous Irish pub menu staple, beef and Guinness pie. This version is one of the best we tried, deliciously rich and deeply flavored, with cubes of Guinness-marinated beef mixed with button mushrooms and bacon lardons. Perhaps it was the chef’s Gallic predisposition that made the combination so winning; even the prettily piped and browned mashed potatoes atop the pie had a touch of the Continent to them.