The Japanese potato salad at Cocoron is near perfection. Flavorful yet delicate, the potatoes are mashed into a silky smooth purée accented with paper-thin slices of cucumber and onion. Bits of bacon give the salad an infusion of savory flavor cut by the vinegar’s acidity. Potato salads always taste better with the balance of bacon and vinegar. The heart-shaped carrot pieces add a splash of color and remind us that Cocoron, as the name announces, warms the heart — this potato salad certainly does.