When I took my first sip of a Pinot Grigio ($20 for 750ml; $15 for 375 ml) from La Tunella, a winery in the Northeastern region of Friuli, in the eastern hillsides of Colli Orientali, I knew I was in for a delightful surprise. It’s winemakers like Massimo Zorzettig that are saving Pinot Grigio from being known as an insipid, watery, and non-descript wine. Massimo’s version has wonderful velocity. I was enraptured in honeysuckle heaven. This is a Pinot Griogio that shows off both the rich soil where the vines originated and meticulous winemaking. The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats, but undergoes a sur lie ageing process that gives it structure and personality.