At this delightful, red-walled Nepalese Indian restaurant in Chicago’s Wicker Park neighborhood, the menu is divided into Nepalese specialties such as the delicious street food chicken momo (steamed dumplings served with a spicy tomato-based sauce) and gorkhali khasi (goat meat cooked in Nepalese spices) and more familiar Indian classics. We loved both sides of the menu that Nepalese brothers and owners Sanjeev and Rajesh Karmacharya and Chef Min Thapa have put together, but we were particularly partial to these crispy fritters made with paneer cheese curds, chopped onion, bell peppers, cilantro and seasoned mashed potatoes (their name means “paneer’s soft, hot pakora,” says Cumin supervisor Dipesh Kakshapaty, even though they’re crispy on the outside). With its simple, clean décor and many images of Nepal and the Himalayas, a trip to Cumin is the best sort of armchair traveling, with gracious hosts and winning re-creations of native foods.