The Pa-Yao Beef Noodle Soup at Pure Thai Shophouse is a beautifully balanced dish. The protein, vegetables and starch make it a complete meal. The textures are balanced, too — the demi-crunch and bitterness of the Chinese broccoli, richness of the tender braised beef ribs (off the bone but still with the connective tissue), meatiness of the lean beef slices and lightness from the hair-thin vermicelli. Add to this the unique beef and galangal herb broth — with some of the same flavor notes as consommé — the pinch of fried garlic flakes, touch of fresh cilantro and the tart and fruity chili sauce, and what you have are strong flavors that don’t cloy because of the many complementary counterpoints. If you’re a fan of noodle soups, this dish is for you.