Ichimura is sushi heaven. The tiny sushi bar in a cordoned-off alcove inside Brushstroke seats only about nine. It was originally the restaurant bar, but had sushi chef Eiji Ichimura, a most congenial and soft spoken man, not mentioned that the set-up is not ideal — he stores his fish in repurposed wine fridges — I wouldn’t have ever known. The omakase-only bar starts at $150 per person, which is not your everyday sushi joint price point, but it’s worth it; I have not had better quality fish in New York. From kibinago, Southern Kyushu anchovy, and madai snapper to the perfectly marbled chutoro and buttery melt-in-your-mouth otoro, every bit was a delight. What struck me most was Ichimura-san’s wizardry with the uni. I was shocked to learn they were Maine uni, which I usually find too briny, but these were the sweetest most delectable sea urchins I have tasted from the East Coast. Watching Ichimura-san cut fish, make nigiri, and grate wasabi is a pleasure. I only wish there were more varieties of fish, and some type of raw shrimp and clam available. At the end of the meal, when Ichimura-san asks you if there’s anything else you’d like, don’t be shy, ask for what you want, and he will try his best to accommodate. While the rest of Brushstroke is bustling, Ichimura operates at its own unrushed and relaxing pace, making it one of my most enjoyable dining experiences in recent memory.