I always order some type of green sautéed vegetables for balance as part of a Chinese meal. Most of the time, I’m not impressed, but at Lao Wai I was shocked by the freshness of the sautéed morning glory. This is not a fancy dish. It’s literally a single variety of vegetable sautéed in oil with garlic. But the morning glory was crisp and flavorful, not limp and overdressed with garlic. The right proportion of garlic — for flavor enhancement, but not dominance — is key, and Lao Wai has wonderful quality control on this. I rarely taste sautéed vegetables this fresh and delicious outside of Asia, as people often consider vegetables an afterthought. But at this Chinese vegetarian restaurant, nothing is an afterthought.