Hands down for the cuisine. The four-course meal (€28,50) was just lovely (albeit a bit indulgent for lunch). A starter of tasty potato soup (seasoned with o.j. and garlic) was poured over slices of sweet orange and tapenade on croutons in a wide soup bowl, showered with sprinklings of chives. For main, dark meat from the wings of free-range chicken was roasted and served with skins wrapped around medaillon pieces accompanied by a light sauce of pearl onions and champignons de Paris. The transformed texture of the meat tasted more like flavorful red meat than your usual non-descript chicken. Ingenious!

A Fourme d’Ambert with prune marinated in red wine proved a winner cheese course. And the finale was a pineapple panacotta that Celia very much enjoyed, but I skipped it because of my aversion to milky-tasting sweets.