Wildair, Contra’s more casual modern bistro a few doors down on Orchard Street, has a short and delicious à la carte menu that includes this dish, which I think is a little piece of heaven. Littleneck clams, leafy sautéed Malabar spinach and lardo are piled on a toasted piece of She Wolf Bakery sourdough, soaking in a vegetable broth with clam juice and a splash of citrus. The freshly grated horseradish on top adds piquancy. She Wolf’s sourdough is hefty enough that it soaks up all of that juicy goodness while still serving as a hardy base that you can eat with your hands. The clams, spinach and lardo offer three distinct textures that taste so good together, and the tanginess of the citrus in the broth brings out a lingering brightness.