History, breathtaking scenery and architecture aside, I am still a food critic, and the absolute highlight of my trip to Greece was my meal at To Kafenio. Unfortunately, it was my last day in Athens, but had I known how good it was, I would have come every day! This little Greek taverna in the charming and posh area of Kolonaki serves simple but elegant home-style cooking. Everything about To Kafenio is classic, down to the congenial older waiter who was thrilled to give his personal recommendations. The house salad is to die for: finely diced zucchini, artichokes, mushrooms, green beans, onions, dill and scallions in a light lemon dressing. I was entranced by the purity and goodness of these ingredients, from the moment the salad arrived until it was all devoured. The grape vine leaves stuffed with meat and rice with egg lemon sauce was scrumptious served hot. And even though I’m not a devotee of spinach pie, I must admit that it was delicious, too. Finally, the meatballs stewed with tomatoes over rice hit the spot like nothing else I ate on the trip did. At this point, I would already have declared it the best meal in Athens, but the walnut cake dessert made my life even sweeter!